Sustainable Leather Certification and the Materials Behind Leatherology

Sustainable leather certification is one of the clearest signs that a material was made responsibly, and it sits at the heart of how Leatherology approaches "thoughtful consumption". To us, that means creating timeless designs, selecting only the highest quality materials for durability and aesthetics, and minimizing our production footprint by responsibly creating lasting products.

Our co-founder and Creative Director, Rae Liu, remarks on the progress we have made:

"One of the ways we are producing more thoughtfully is by embarking on what has been a multi-year journey to uplevel our supply chain. We are proud to report that 100% of our leather vendors are now LWG certified, our cotton canvas is 100% organic, and that our newest paper products are FSC-certified."

Material certifications are just a piece of the sustainability puzzle, and we're here to explain what these confusing acronyms mean. From LWG certified leather to GOTS and OCS organic cotton canvas and FSC certified paper, here is what each label actually verifies and why responsible, ethically sourced materials matter.

What Is LWG Certification?

LWG certification is the foremost designation given to leather manufacturers that meet specific environmental and ethical standards established by the Leather Working Group (LWG), a multi-stakeholder group focused on promoting sustainable environmental practices within the leather industry.

LWG certification provides a way for leather manufacturers to demonstrate their commitment to sustainability and responsible production practices. The certification process evaluates various aspects of a manufacturer's operations.

Like the Olympics, LWG ratings come in Bronze, Silver, and Gold, following a stringent checklist of criteria such as water usage, energy consumption, waste disposal, and chemical management and compliance. It also upholds the social and ethical responsibility of the manufacturer for labor conditions and supply chain transparency.

When you purchase a product made from LWG certified leather, you are ensuring that the leather is sourced and tanned using industry-leading sustainability practices.

In short, LWG certified leather is the industry benchmark for responsible, ethically sourced leather, and it gives shoppers a reliable way to recognize environmentally certified leather rather than relying on vague marketing claims.

All Leatherology leathers are sourced from LWG certified tanneries. We are especially proud that our signature leather collections are LWG Gold certified.

Chrome Tanning vs Vegetable Tanning

Certification tells you how responsibly a tannery operates, but the tanning method itself also shapes a leather's character and its footprint. Almost all leather is made one of two ways, and the difference is worth understanding.

Chrome tanning, developed in the 1850s, uses chromium salts to turn hides into leather in about a day. It is fast and inexpensive and produces a soft, supple, water-resistant leather, which is why an estimated 80 to 90 percent of the world's leather is chrome tanned. Its main environmental concern is the chromium in tannery wastewater, which can be harmful if it is not properly treated. That risk is far better controlled in regions with strong regulation and modern effluent treatment.

Vegetable tanning is the older craft. It uses natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, and roots, a slower process that can take weeks or months. The result is a firmer leather that develops a rich patina over time. Because the tanning agents are plant based and biodegradable, vegetable tanning is generally considered lower impact, though it still uses a significant amount of water. In both cases the hides themselves are a byproduct of the meat and dairy industry.

Neither method is automatically sustainable on its own, which is exactly why third-party certification matters. An LWG audit assesses how a tannery manages water, energy, waste, and chemicals at the leather manufacturing stage, regardless of the tanning method it uses.

Other Leather Standards to Know

LWG is the most widely recognized measure of sustainable leather certification, but it is not the only standard you may come across. The OEKO-TEX Leather Standard tests finished leather for harmful substances, OEKO-TEX STeP certifies production facilities, and the Made in Green label combines the two into a traceable claim. ISO 14001 is a broader environmental management standard used across many industries, including tanneries. Knowing these names makes it easier to read a brand's claims and see whether they are backed by a real certification.

What Is GOTS and OCS Certification?

GOTS and OCS are two textile-specific certifications. GOTS stands for the Global Organic Textile Standard, an organization created to manage, certify, and uphold the environmental, social, and technical criteria for responsible textile production.

GOTS is internationally recognized by standardizing the expectations for sustainable and ethically produced textiles and replacing several other international certifications. It has become the leading standard for the processing of textile goods using organic fibers and is one of the most stringent certifications for organic textiles.

The GOTS certification covers the entire textile supply chain, from the harvesting of raw materials (such as cotton, wool, or silk) to the finished product. It requires that all aspects of textile production meet strict environmental and social standards.

Products that carry the GOTS label must be made with at least 95% certified organic fibers and must meet all of the program's environmental and social criteria. For example, it prohibits the use of toxic chemicals, such as certain dyes and solvents, and requires the use of environmentally friendly and biodegradable substances.

OCS, Organic Content Standard, is a voluntary counterpart to GOTS, emphasizing organically-grown products, recycling organic materials, and making those products more accessible to the global market at large.

Cotton is one of the oldest materials used by humans, but modern cotton production has a huge environmental impact, often requiring huge amounts of pesticides and fertilizers and generating huge amounts of wastewater. We wanted to transform utilitarian cotton canvas in a luxurious way by combining it with leather, but Rae made it a priority to source a high-quality organic cotton canvas that avoided many of these environmental impacts.

"We get asked a lot why a brand called 'Leatherology' is offering a line in canvas? Well, we have an affinity for all-natural materials, like canvas and leather, and nothing was more natural to us than 100% organic cotton. Working with cotton canvas and trimming it in leather gave us an opportunity to really play on texture and combine our two favorite all-natural materials, in a way that felt authentic to our brand."

Our organic Canvas Collection is a sophisticated and resilient set of our best-selling styles made from GOTS and OCS-certified 100% organic heavy duty cotton canvas material, trimmed with our signature LWG certified leathers.

What Is FSC Certification?

The Forest Stewardship Council, FSC, is voluntary, market-based certification for the environmental, economic, and socially responsible management of the world's forests for paper supply. FSC certification verifies that forest products, such as wood and paper, have been sourced from responsibly-managed forests, protect the rights of local communities and their environment, and prevent deforestation through conservation efforts like replanting trees, with no net loss of forests over time.

FSC certification is widely recognized as one of the most rigorous forest certification programs in the world. By choosing products made from FSC-certified materials, consumers can have confidence that they are supporting responsible forest management practices that protect wildlife, promote local communities, and help to mitigate climate change.

Leatherology recently launched a new line of stationery and journal covers in the international A5 size. It was important to us during the development of this new product that we work only with FSC certified suppliers. We plan to add even more FSC-certified products as we expand our stationery line.

How to Tell if Leather Is Responsibly Sourced

If you are shopping for ethical leather and want to look past the marketing, a few simple checks go a long way:

Look for a named certification. A specific standard like LWG is more meaningful than a general claim such as eco leather or green, which are not always tied to any audited criteria.

Ask about the rating or tier. With LWG, tanneries are rated Bronze, Silver, or Gold, so it is fair to ask which level a brand's leather reaches.

Check for transparency. Responsible brands can tell you where their leather is made and which standard sits behind the claim. All Leatherology leathers are sourced from LWG certified tanneries, and our signature collections are LWG Gold certified.